View Full Version : UFS 101 - A New Player's Guide to Deckbuilding

06-22-2010, 06:35 PM
So youíre officially broken into this crazy game we call UFS. Youíve found a playgroup, youíve cracked your product, and now you are ready to get out there and start bashing faces in for the chance to win the ultimate prize in gaming. Problem is, you have no idea what the hell youíre doing. You slap cards together in the hopes that you peel into your Dragonís Flame set ups early and often and set your opponents ablaze with the holy fire of being lucky as hell! Instead, you happen to draw all attacks and check 2ís like a champ. You can do one of two things. You can decide that you clearly are bad at UFS and go to back to TCG's where ready and available netdecking let you stomp face for little to no intellectual investment. Or you can take a step back and examine some of the fundamentals of deckbuilding in standard UFS.

If you are still reading you must have chosen option B. Good for you. YGO has enough players anyway (yeah that was cheap) and you want to figure out some of finer points of building decks in a unique game like UFS. So what gives? Well, chances are that if youíre new to UFS, you really have no idea how to build a solid, consistent deck. Well by the end of this article I hope to introduce a you new bloods to some of the finer points of deck development in our beloved game. So without further ado...

Your Format... Know it!

Know your format! You see me tossing the word standard around a lot. Well in UFS, as of June, 2010, standard constructed includes the sets Shadowar, Quest for Souls, Tower of Souls, Tekken 6, and all promos and reprints with a 5 point shuriken on the text box. From this card pool, your first objective is going to be to find a character. This is one of most fun parts of UFS and really reflects your individual style as a player. Do you like bashing face? Give Mitsurugi or Zi Mei a shot. Like to play LOTS of attacks in a turn? Why not try characters like Ivy or Christie? Are you the control player that likes making his opponents frustrated to the point of bleeding eyes/ripped out hair/etc.? Try Lizardman or Astrid. There are a ton of characters in UFS that suit all styles of player. Look around, ask veteran players, or check out the various UFS resources available if you are interested in seeing what a lot the characters do. Sketch has an interesting thread on the forums dealing with the standard characters and their strengths and weakness. The biggest thing is experimentation. Find a character that works for you and just play play play!

Keep It Slender!

Iím talking about your deck and not your girlish physique. In this card game (and almost any other card game) you want to stay as close to the MINIMUM number of cards in a deck as you can. For UFS that magic number is 59 cards + 1 for you character for a total of 60. Now the new guys are sitting there saying ďDrew, I have all these rad cards I want to play. Why should I not play every good card I have in hopes that I draw them all! Then I can always get my double Dragonís Flame draws since I play 40 attacks in my 97 card deck!Ē If this is your current mindset, then I really hope I play you first round at Worlds. You want to keep your deck as small possible based on the simple fact that the more junk you have in your deck, the less likely you are to draw your good stuff. If you have 40 attacks in your deck, thatís 40 cards you need to sift through to find Dragonís flame. Now if were rocking a cool calm 16 attacks and limiting our foundations to the bare minimum, that Flame is going to show up much more often. Simple, right? Every World Champion thus far has kept a small deck fronted by a character with a large handsize. A small deck + a character that sees a lot of cards = a more consistent deck. Keep this in mind when building and I guarantee you that you will win a lot of your games on the back of your deck drawing you out of bad situations. Remember, when building consistency is key!

Keep Your Kung Fu Strong

In other words, figure out your attack base. As a good start I try to pick out 14-18 attacks and stay in that range. As a general rule of thumb, control decks tend to want less attacks as they need more foundations early, have access to better card draw, and usually run high costed, high damage finishers. Aggro decks on the other hand like having a few more attacks as that is where the meat of their gameplan lies. They want to kill you as fast as possible and generally favor early game rather than going to later turns. Next, weed out your attacks with a 2 control check or worse. Decks realistically only want to play no more than 6 attacks with a 2 control check in a deck due to them making your early build turns very risky. Playing multiple 2 difficulty foundations turn 1 becomes more dangerous and youíll have aneurysm with how many times you check that 2CC attack on a 3 difficulty foundation when you are going first. So to avoid splattering brain matter on your opponent, keep 2CC to a minimum. Next, try to find a good mix of pokes and finishers. For the sake of simplicity try to have about half and half. Now what do I mean by pokes? Think of pokes in UFS as an attack that is there to set up your bigger attacks much like they do in fighting games. They are attacks that stress good utility and have beneficial abilities and keywords instead of high damage and speed. Good examples of this include attacks like Hilt Impact, Zi Meiís Wheel Kick, Seal, and Wipe the Floor. Finishers are the attacks that follow the pokes and usually serve to put your opponent into the floor. They tend to be big, hard to block, and usually have a devastating effect. Examples of this include Fury of the Ancients, Phoenix Smasher, Knight Breaker, and Twilight Embrace. These counts will vary from deck to deck but this is a good start and you can always tweak as you go. For instance, I have seen Ivy decks that run over 20 attacks and Jin decks that run 8 or more 2 checks because their character cards benefit building against the norm. Experiment and see what works for you build.

ORANGE CARD ORANGE CARD ... what are all these blue and green cards doing?

This section is going to see a lot of variation depending on your character, symbol, and general play style. Assets and actions are interesting card types in that they generally donít directly win you the game like attacks nor can they help you build or outrace your opponent in the foundation war. So why play them? Well, while they donít necessarily win you the game by themselves, they provide TONS of utility. They usually sport excellent blocks, great CCs, and many can turn the tide of a game with a single R of E speed effect. Actions and assets tend to flesh out and support your overall strategy rather than make up a cornerstone of your decks general game plan. For this reason I tend to include no more than 7 or so total of both when I am building a deck. Standard is very much about keeping pace with your opponentís building and drawing an opening hand glutted with blue and green does nothing to help you get foundations into play in order to start mounting your offense.

Foundations are ... well... the foundation of your deck

Foundations are the key to your deck. Period. Attacks may kill your opponent but the boring gray cards are what let you play your attacks and provide you with the opportunities you need to make sure your attacks get through. So letís talk about counts and how important cost of foundations is in standard UFS. As I mentioned before, standard UFS is all about pace. 9 times out of 10 when you look at why you lost a match in standard, itís usually because you were out built and your opponent was able to establish board control before you were. A lot of times players refer to this as a ďrace.Ē Well, how do you win the race? Playing as much as you can as early as you can is the best way to do it. And to do that you need cheap, low costed foundations. 8-12 (More if you are playing Life, Good, or some builds of Fire) of your foundations are going to be 1 difficulty or lower. These cheap foundations, typically referred to as spam, help you bolster your early build turns and keep you safe from being stunned out and killed early.

Now that youíve picked your spam, lets get our expensive, 3+ difficulty foundations out of the way. Typically I donít like to play more than 8 of these in a deck as they make your turn 1 builds difficult and downright suicidal if you are playing a 2 check attack. You never want to have to try to pass more than a single 3 difficulty foundation when going first. For this reason, 8 is a good number as it minimizes the number you will draw in your first 6 cards while still giving you access to the strong abilities 3+ diff foundations provide.

Finally, after getting your 3 diffs and spam foundations sorted out and finalized, the rest of your deck is going to be solid 2 diff foundations. 2 diffs provide the widest array of abilities, have decent blocks, and great control checks. They are usually the core of you deck and are going to comprise more than half of your total base.

06-22-2010, 06:36 PM
The Ten Worldly Truths of Deckbuilding

So chances are you saw this and thought to yourself “geez, too much text.” Well for you wieners, here is the TLDR version of the article. This is a great, 10 step baseline for any deck. Now remember, this does not apply to all character and play styles. This is a very basic approach to building. However, following these steps makes it much easier for new players to find their deck building rhythm and to help build competitive lists on their own.

Determine how you want to play.
Determine who you want to play.
Pick 14-18 attacks (less for control, more for agro. Depends on your build)
Cut down your 2 control check attacks to no more than 6.
Pick up to 7 TOTAL actions/assets. They can’t commit to help build and it sucks getting multiple in your opening hand.
Pick 8-16 1 or 0 difficulty foundations. This is all deck dependent foundation as right now the only symbols with access to 16 playable spam foundations is good, life, and fire.
Pick no more than 8 3+ difficulty foundations. You don’t want to try to pass more than 1 on your opener especially with a 2 control attack in your deck.
Fill the rest of your deck with 2 diff foundations. These are the workhorses of your deck and provide great abilities, decent blocks, and solid checks for 2 diff.
Be mindful of your blocks. Make sure you have enough blocks to adequately defend yourself against the more popular attacks in the format. And to know what a popular attack is, you should…
Research, research, research! Read what other people are doing. Play a lot. Write stuff down. Go back and read it later. Succeeding in standard, especially with the recent banning, is all about knowing what to expect. Keep an open mind when playing and building and most of all have fun.

If you've made it this far into my article, I'd like to thank you for reading. I'd love some feedback on this. If it was useful, let me know. If it sucks, let me know if i can improve it in anyway. And above all, feel free to hit me up at anytime on AIM at Badman4275 or PM me on the boards. I'm always willing to help out new players. Thanks for reading guys.

06-23-2010, 06:25 PM
Guide is so amazing. It's very true for this game and I second wanting to play people with 97 card decks. lol

06-23-2010, 06:29 PM
then i volunteer my 90 card Death/Order Victor1 deck... i'll mill ya out before ya kill me, lol; but yep remember this guide is for MOST cases, there are those wierdos, like me that play AGAINST the grain of the rules and play off the wall deck ideas... see Pure Life Yuri prior to set 12... yeah don't want to remember how that went but.. yeah...


06-23-2010, 08:56 PM
Is it really that much of a difference between 0-1 cost and 0-2 cost?

06-24-2010, 12:32 AM
Yup. Its all about average control checks. You are more likely to pass a foundation chain with difficulties 3, 3, 3, 4 than a chain 3, 3, 4, 4. If you check an attack on that 3rd foundation your turn ends and you are stuck with 2 foundations turn 1. It may seem very subtle and kind of silly, but making sure your 1/x's and 0/x's comprise about a quarter of your foundation helps you consistently build 4 foundations on turn 1. You can't lump in your 2 diffs with your spam because they throw your build turns off. Does that make a little more sense? The way i set up the article was to provide a very basic schema for setting up a foundation base. I also hope that you will play and use what works for you! Try running 8-12 0-1 diff foundations and if you dont like it, change the counts. Its all about how you want to play.

06-24-2010, 09:34 AM
...is a really great primer for UFS Rookies, man! Thanks for posting and having it stickied. I have a few friends who are very new to the game, and i'm going to refer them to this thread immediately!


06-24-2010, 09:48 AM
Man thanks for the tips i will try them out and see where it gets me. I am new to the game converted from magic,got tired of having no challenge not a competitive croud where i am, i am very hooked on the game. I do like how the game plays and is competitive but casual at the same time. I Play Lu Chen but i play to way diff guidelines i run 21 attacks but dont draw a lot of cards because of cute prankster, and i want to make sure i see them also i have never played more than 33 foundations and i seem to have enough 80 percent of the time with only 3 torn hero i will definetely try to ad some more 1 drops

06-24-2010, 11:25 AM
Man thanks for the tips i will try them out and see where it gets me. I am new to the game converted from magic,got tired of having no challenge not a competitive croud where i am, i am very hooked on the game. I do like how the game plays and is competitive but casual at the same time. I Play Lu Chen but i play to way diff guidelines i run 21 attacks but dont draw a lot of cards because of cute prankster, and i want to make sure i see them also i have never played more than 33 foundations and i seem to have enough 80 percent of the time with only 3 torn hero i will definetely try to ad some more 1 drops

Glad you all are finding it useful!

Good or life Lu Chen can afford to play a little high on the attacks due to his only solid finisher in good being Wrath of Heaven and Life having Wrath and Assassin Strike. Both symbols have a LOT of great utility and poke attacks but really don't have access to a lot of the great damage pumps that symbols like Earth or Fire get to play. I do suggest though that if you are playing 18-20 attacks then adjust your foundations accordingly (higher count of spam foundations, better checks, etc.) in order to be able to build consistently early to start attacking on 2 and 3.

06-24-2010, 03:27 PM
i have tweaked it a bit it now runs 8 1 drops and now i am hitting what i need 90-95 percent of the time im still losing alot but i think its purely on rookie mistakes i have all the rares and promos i need just learning when and what to play

06-24-2010, 07:54 PM
Good read. Thanks for the tips. Still relatively new, about a little more than a year but no tournament play. So this is a nice sort of guideline to consider when working on a deck. It's certainly made me think about my deck building and why in some cases they're a bit slower than I want or maybe even a bit to meaty. I've already broken a few decks down into groups so that next week I can look at them with a closer eye.

06-26-2010, 01:20 AM
Great Guide! After I read this I looked through my Charlie deck and counted 28 moves and 14 2cc. Now I have to look into my other 13 decks lol.

06-26-2010, 03:39 AM
there is always the rule of thumb though, "What level of attack/action/asset/foundation/character/splits" Ratio do you feel comfortable with, if ya want a deck with an attack ratio of 1:2 attacks:Foundations/action/asset/character then that's your decision, hell if ya want all your attacks to be 2cc then go for it, it's if you've built up a comfort level for that or not, personally i never run 2's unless it's a themed deck, but still...


06-26-2010, 08:39 AM
When i was first learning to build decks i was taught to come up with a preliminary list of 16 attacks and 32 foundations, a total of 48 cards. I would then have wiggle room to further customize my deck by adding Actions or Assets, or increasing or decreasing the number of Attacks and Foundations. I still, to this day, start with this ratio as the backbone of any deck when deck building.

06-26-2010, 12:18 PM
Fellow Atlanta player here, I've been Drew's teammate since we both started playing back in Set 1.

Doesn't matter if you're playing control, aggro, tempo, combo, mill, whatever, this guide, especially the ratios Drew goes over, is a great place to start, ESPECIALLY for deckbuilding in Standard. 95% of the decks we've built in Standard use this basis to start with, then get tweaked from there. Legacy and Extended get a little weirder - you'll have decks with 4 attacks, decks with around 20 attacks (lol Clones), etcetera. In Standard currently it's a lot harder to get away with playing either extreme; it's just not really a good idea no matter what character you're playing. The vast majority of good blocks (+0, +1) are on attacks in Standard, with weird exceptions like Carefree. Something to keep in mind if you're trying to build a low-attack count deck.

The only exception to this rule in Standard is Ivy, really - she wants to play a lot of her pokes, so you might see 20-22 attacks in that deck plus her action, which makes your first few turns of setup really, really terrifying. Her 6 HS combined with how she wants to build her deck makes for chancy turn 1s and forces aggressive mulligans hunting for 3-foundation hands. That said, despite losing Path, she's now a lot more playable thanks to Stand Off being gone.

2CCs in this format had better kill or seriously cripple your opponent, as fast as it is. Notables are Turn Thruster, Dragon Lifter, and Menuett Dance for generic attacks that most characters in those symbols can work with; these are all VERY efficient attacks that certain - not all - decks will be able to use and justify the 2CC. My advice? If you want to play one of these attacks, do just that. Play -ONE-. 3-4 2CCs means that there WILL be games where you're going first, go to pass that second 2-diff foundation, and fail, basically giving your opponent a free turn. Every 2CC you add past that just increases the odds that that 2 will flip at the worst possible moment - you want your deck to be scary consistent, not explosive 1 game out of 5 and out of gas the other 4.

Specific characters will have 2CCs that work well with them and not with any other characters - look at Mt. Devil Divider in Yoshimitsu (unblockable), Playful Slice in Xianghua (Tempo with her F, helps set up easy combos) or Wrath of Heaven in Lu Chen (Shuts down your opponent's next turn) for examples of this. Combining these with an otherwise-3CC attack base is not necessarily a bad idea, it'll largely depend on the particular build of that character you're using.

09-01-2010, 02:38 AM
The Ten Worldly Truths of Deckbuilding

Cut down your 2 control check attacks to no more than 6.

Hey now decks can work with more than six 2 control cards in them they just need 0 difficulty foundations :P

Great Deck building guide though Drew

09-18-2010, 04:07 AM
Thanks for this guide! I haven't been playing long, but I want to get my friends away from Yugioh and into UFS. It's such a good game.

However, my deckbuilding skills are subpar. (That and I really only have access to Legacy cards for the most part lol. Mai Shiranui FTW)

This will definately help me out. And I am so happy this game is coming back. Totally buying all of the cards in my Comic Shop lol

10-06-2010, 08:35 AM
I've been playing since Fantasy Flight Games, but it's only been booster drafts I've played, so for my first actual deck, this is very insightful. Building my first deck last night, I was slightly overwhelmed by how much stuff you have to keep in mind when building. This has really helped.

10-08-2010, 11:18 PM
Glad you guys are liking it. If you need any more information please don't hesitate to ask. I may do another guide soon for metagame decisions.

07-15-2011, 08:09 AM
Is there a Resource Guide for newbs? Something that overviews the stregths of the different resources and maybe highlights a few of the no brainer cards?

07-15-2011, 11:01 AM
Is there a Resource Guide for newbs? Something that overviews the stregths of the different resources and maybe highlights a few of the no brainer cards?

I personally used to use but for some reason it is acting up on me now and can't get it to run maybe you can get more lucky it has nearly ever card on it up to the tekken 6 set

07-15-2011, 11:34 AM
Is there a Resource Guide for newbs? Something that overviews the stregths of the different resources and maybe highlights a few of the no brainer cards?

A lot of players have been asking for one. I will be writing one soon that covers the symbols as they are currently used in standard and some of the key cards.

07-18-2011, 06:57 AM
Sweet! That would help a lot. I picked my first to characters based on who they where, I think my third will have to be based on how I'd prefer to play.

08-24-2013, 03:58 PM
How many cards should i put in as blocking card? does it matter with how much blocking modifiers?

08-24-2013, 05:05 PM
How many cards should i put in as blocking card? does it matter with how much blocking modifiers?

For one, it kind of depends on what kind of deck you're running. If you're running a control type deck you might want to have more blocks, but if you're running an aggressive deck you might just not care. Or you might have a type of deck that doesn't rely much on blocking, but rather has other ways to save itself instead. Another thing is how much profit that cards effect will have vs the cost of that crappy/no block mod.

10-29-2013, 04:11 PM
Great article thanks.